The Kanchipuram Silk Saree
If you ask any South Indian woman what the sky blue Kanjeevaram saree means to her, she will undoubtedly answer the obvious: it is a rich-looking silk ocean made for exhibition at special occasions and a precious asset to be treasured for a lifetime. Kanjeevarams or Kanchipuram silks are the South Indian counterpart to Northern India's famous Banarasi Silks. They are the wearer's pride and the envy of passersby.
What makes the Kanchipuram Silk Saree unique?
Pure Kanchipuram Silk Sarees are composed of 100% silk and have zari designs made of silk threads dipped in liquid gold and silver. The decorative zari must include at least 57 percent silver and 0.6 percent gold to be classed as a Kanjeevaram Sari, according to the Geographical Indication (GI) stricture.
The very elaborate decorations woven into the body in gold threads of human and animal images of geometric designs with temple towers along the border are the distinctive attractiveness of this obviously royal enterprise. There is a lot of difference in the borders. Traditional Kanchipuram saree designs include temple borders, checks, stripes, and flowery (buttas). Silk, the basic material, is noted for its high quality and artistry.
Good fine count weaves with appropriate enhancement, linings, and smooth texture, as well as the special shimmer quality, have maintained its reputation as a valuable product to be carefully stored and displayed on those special occasions such as weddings, grand parties, big festivals, and social functions. It's no surprise that its market value has remained stable over time.
The intricacy of the work, colours, design, and material utilised, such as zari (gold thread), are all factors that influence the price of Kanchipuram sarees. The Kanchipuram Silk Saree starts at Rs. 699/- and can cost up to a lakh or more, depending on the pattern, motif, and materials utilised.
The Kanchipuram Saree received the Geographical Indication designation for its origin in 2005 in order to get protection and continuing sustenance for a great product that is the result of commitment and dedication.
Art Silk Sarees Will Be Popular This Year.
According to legend, Kanchi Silks' weavers are descended from Sage Markandeya, the celestial weaver, who is famous for weaving tissue from the Aishwarya Ray in Kanchipuram silk sareefibre of the lotus plant. Furthermore, whereas Lord Shiva is said to favour cotton as a cloth, Lord Vishnu prefers silk. As a result, the weavers could be called Lord Vishnu's favourites.
Kanchipuram was given importance and received its traditional name during the time of Krishnadevaraya, a well-known ruler in southern India. Devangas and Saligars, two weaving communities, were the mainstay of Kanjeevaram sarees, and they still abound in Kanchi, weaving sarees as their traditional job.
The making of a Kanjeevaram saree
But first, let's take a look at what goes into creating this well-known cloth. The Kanjeevaram saree always contains two important fabric components. The first is fine mulberry silk from Karnataka, and the second is gleaming golden and silver zari threads from Gujarat.
Three shuttles are used to weave a Kanchipuram saree. While one worker is on the right side of the shuttle, his assistant is on the left side. The border is usually coloured and designed differently than the body. If the Pallu (the saree's hanging component or end-piece) is to be woven in a different shade, it is first weaved separately before being joined to the body. It's a delicate joint called pelni, and it's pretty difficult. This section usually consists of a zigzag line that is incorporated into the design.
Sun, moon, peacock, parrot, swan, lion, mango, leaf, chariot, and other prominent motifs Mallinaggu (jasmine bud in a round frame) and Thandavalam (parallel lines that travel over the body) are also popular motifs or designs.
The more expensive types may include richly woven pallus with paintings by the renowned Raja Ravi Varma, depicting scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana epics. There are also special varieties made with thick silk and gold material that are only used on special occasions.
Kanjeevaram – a treasured heritage
The Kanchipuram saree, which has been woven since ancient times and is firmly interwoven in the spirit of the town, is no longer just a pricey cloth; it is regarded as a valuable heritage that is sacrosanct and closely guarded by the locals. It's no surprise that it's become the principal source of income, with the ability and knowledge of the trade being passed down from generation to generation. People are so obsessed with this cloth that a pre-independence Tamil film named 'Kanchivaram' was released in 2008 about it. The film's topic, while briefly demonstrating the technique, emphasises the pitiful plight of the weavers and their families, who lived on the edge due to being unorganised, exploited, and marginalised. Only when the state government intervened and persuaded them to create a co-operative did their situation improve. Since then, the weavers' interests have been protected by a collective movement.
Glemora has a unique collection of Kanchipuram sarees.
With its three-decade relationship with master weavers across India, Glemora is able to predict market trends and even advise fusion fashion. Kanchipuram Silks' traditional weaves can so contain excellent elements from various traditional variations across India. In the Kanchi silk saree, there is Warli painting for the borders and pallu in pen painting tribal art.
Hand-painted floral bootis in Kalamkari embellish the traditional Red Kanchipuram saree, which is complemented by hand stitching in aari, kundan, dabala, and zardozi. Traditional Kanchipuram silk sarees are given a new dimension of finery and fashion with block printed pattu silks with zari decorated pallus in modern designs and contemporary art.
Crystals, kundans, and beads adorn the latest Kanchi Pattu Silk Saris. They are utilised as apparel for special occasions like as weddings, visits to temples during traditional festivals, cultural programmes, large parties, and birthdays, and they make distinctive gifts for festive occasions.
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Kanchipuram’s cotton sarees
The not-so-grand Kanchipuram Cotton Handloom Saree, which is light, airy, and has check patterns, comes in appealing colour combinations, appealing motifs, elegant borders, and stylish designer pallus, and has its own appropriate position. During the summer, it is popular because it is light and airy, as well as comfortable and appealing.
With its embroidered bootis and silk or zari brocades as borders, the south indian cotton silk sarees is appropriate for daily casual, corporate office, college, and parties. The fancy version, with block prints and a resham border, is a blend of trendy and ethnic, and would be excellent for homemakers and professional women alike as an occasional wear.
The Kanchipuram saree is no longer exclusive to Kanchipuram or Tamil Nadu. In fact, it is a source of pride for India to be one of the ethnic groups that has maintained its traditional traditions in the manufacture and purity of materials. Handlooms will continue to be a source of inspiration and cultural treasure for India for many more years to come, thanks to the government's sustained encouragement of the market and weaver-friendly laws.
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